September 15, 2002
Ahh, looks like quilted cushions, not to mention
the movie chair :)
Take you heat gun and harden for about 2 more minutes.
We are almost done. |
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September 15, 2002
Last steps are the feet. Cut 2 pieces 1cm X .5cm
and the same length as the chair itself. |
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September 15, 2002
Place the 2 pieces aligned with the inside armrest
pillows, and flush with the front of the chair. |
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September 15, 2002
Now all you need to do is blend the pieces together
and cook in the oven to make sure it is cured solid
and won't fall apart when being painted.
Because I will be molding my chair to make 4 copies
(I know, I am taking the lazy way out - hee hee) I
have not attached the feet.
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I will make
those seperate and attach them to each chair copie like
a model kit. |
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September 15, 2002
And the finished product.
Or prototype if you are making a mold like I am.
Of course we also have paint to worry about, but
I will be adding that once the mold, and copies are
done. |
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October 05, 2002
First thing to do when making a mold is to build
a strong box.
I wrap my entire box surface with Masking Tape because
it doesn't stick to the silicone the way the foamcore
would.
Because of the chairs unique shape and rounded corners,
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I decided I
could manage making a 1 piece mold.
To recap... I made my box, Used a drop of Hot Glue under
the chair base to prevent it from rising once the silicone
was poured in, and then I sprayed a coat of release agent
(Liquid Wax) to prevent the hardened silicone to stick to
the chair and walls of the box. |
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October 05, 2002
Using Por-A-Mold is great.
You mix identical halves of polymer and hardener
and in 6 hours have a highlt flexible Silicone mold.
A bit more expensive but it should last several years.
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Here is what
the mold box looks like after the mixture is poured into
the box. |
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October 05, 2002
Carefully peel back the foamcore box and place it
in the trash.
Since you sprayed release agent into the box, this
should be an easy task. |
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October 05, 2002
After about 6-8 hours, you can remove the box and
prepare to remove your original sculpt from the mold.
Here you can see all the foamcore pieces removed
and the mold turned upside down.
Some silicone always creeps into the cracks of the
mold base between the box and your sculpt. |
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October 05, 2002
I use nose hair scissors to trim the excess silicone
by slightly pulling and snipping.
Make sure NOT to cut too deep, you don't want to
destroy your mold, just trim the excess. |
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October 05, 2002
Now take your time and gently pull the silicone away
from your sculpt.
Since the silicone is very stretchy you should easily
be able to do this but be warned... 95% of the time
your original sculpture will come out it pieces as
you can see in the picture...
what's left of my Sculpy chair :( |
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October 05, 2002
Now that the mold is clean, I spray some release
agent (liquid wax) into the mold and wait for it to
evaporate dry.
This leaves a thin invisible wax coat that prevents
the resin from sticking permanently to you mold. That
would be BAD :D
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After mixing
my resin (Por-A-Kast) I pour it into the molds.
Here you see the Por-A-Kast 25 seconds after being mixed. |
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October 05, 2002
Here you see the Por-A-Kast 45 seconds after being
mixed.
Can you see the resin starting to harden from the
inside out?
Look at the cloudy streaks in the right mold. That
is the resin getting hard. |
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October 05, 2002
Here you see the Por-A-Kast 55 seconds after being
mixed.
I love this resin because it hardens in less then
2 minutes. The centers have cured and you can see
along the mold edges, the remaining liquid waiting
to take it's final shape. |
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October 05, 2002
2 minutes later, Gently stretch the Silicone to seperate
the mold from your resin and pull your chair out of
the mold.
Pretty cool eh? |
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