July 28, 2002
The paint now dry and 4:30 in the morning :)
If I didn't have to work at 9 I would work on it
some more, it is becoming so exciting at this stage. |
|
 |
 |
|
July 28, 2002
Here is a closer picture hiding the ugliness of the
rest of the basement :)
You can see much better now the light grey foamcore
thickness between layers 2 and 3 of the ceiling.
I have also made the supports taller and they are
now flush with the ceiling. More on that later. |
|
 |
|
|
August 03, 2002
Loking at the movie stills, I noticed that there
was a column detail on the entrance wall.
I cut 2 pieces 4 cm wide by 20 cm long. Then also
4 strips to add thickness.
|
|
 |
Cut along one
side to allow the foamcore to bend. I cut a bit closer together
because I wanted a smoother curve. |
|
|
August 03, 2002
First thing I did was Hot Glue 2 strips of foamcore.
Align one end with the wall and wrap around the 1/4
round tube all the way past the door frame.
We want the pieces to stick out far enough to be
able to cut them at an angle.
|
|
 |
The top piece
is alligned at 4 cm from the floor. |
|
|
August 03, 2002
The bigger 4 cm piece is then attached to the 2 strips
creating a double thickness.
This pieces edges also exceed the main door frame. |
|
 |
|
|
August 03, 2002
The green arrows show you the cut we want to make
so that all 3 layers will fit flush with the main
room curved walls.
Use your Xacto blade and cut downwards. |
|
 |
|
|
August 03, 2002
Here is what the finished cut should look like. Nice
and clean and will fit perfectly with the wall. |
|
 |
|
|
August 03, 2002
Now since this piece is decoration we cannot have
ugly slits all the way around.
I had a leftover plastic sheet that I cut 4 cm and
glued to the foamcore with a Gluestick.
Hot glue would cause bumps and look bad once it would
be painted over. We want a smooth surface.
|
|
 |
You can also
cover the foamcore with cardboard or thick paper. You don't
need to buy blue acetate :) |
|
|
August 03, 2002
Now we must create the woodframe detailing from the
movie set. I took some air dry putty and made a snake
and rolled it along the top of the 2 layers of foamcore.
I then pressed the snake against the wall and the
top of the blue shape. Causing an inwards groove just
like real woodwork.
|
|
 |
Once dry I can
paint it. You can use Sculpy but it will never harden. if
you use a heatgun it will melt the foamcore. |
|
|
August 03, 2002
I was able to use Super Sculpy for the platform tops
though. Since the lids of the spraypaint are plastic,
they did not melt or deform with the heatgun.
I just used my tools to create a 45' angle all the
way around and then made a little groove in the center. |
|
 |
|
August 03, 2002
A close up of the stair corner podiums. You can see
that I also made a grove detail on the top.
Sculpting architecture is very hard I find. To have
it look perfect seems impossible. Maybe if I can get
access to a woodworking shop one day, I can improve
on this aspect of my dioramas. |
|
 |
|
August 03, 2002
Another small addition to the top of the center Hologram
pad.
I just cut out 2 small circles out of cardboard
and attached them to the top of the platform. |
|
 |
|
August 03, 2002
The completed Office space. Now I am ready to paint.
Woohoo :) |
|
 |
|
August 03, 2002
As in real life, I used a brush to paint into the
corners first where my roller would not fit. I brushed
back and forth often until the paint started to dry
to avoid brush stroke marks.
|
|
 |
I am using an
acrylic water based paint from the art store and adding
only the slightest water to dilute it.
I don't want the foamcore to warp. If the paint is too
watery, especially after 2-3 coats, it will soak into the
foamcore and I will wake up to Palpatine's Fun House - :) |
|
August 03, 2002
I bought a mini sponge roller and used it to apply
my red ocre paint. it worked out really well, applying
evenly and most important, without brush stroke marks. |
|
 |
|
|
