June 13, 2001
This is what our Engine Shape looks like at this
stage. Now we are ready for the Pipe Holes. |
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June 13, 2001
I used a Bamboo Shishkabob stick to poke 4 holes
where the pipes will be glued. You could also use
a straw though I felt the smaller stick worked better. |
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June 13, 2001
Now we must make the stand for the engine to rest
on. Cut a piece of Super Sculpey about 2 inches high
and 1 inch wide. |
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June 13, 2001
Attach it in this manner to the bottom of the Engine.
I even placed a toothpic between the 2 shapes to make
sure it did not bend. Now I was ready to use my Paint
Stripping Heat Gun to harden the Super Sculpey. Because
of Sebulba's Pod Engine made of plastic, I could not
place it in the oven for fear of melting and starting
over - Nooooooo - LOL. |
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June 13, 2001
And here we see the finished sculpt. It might look
weird sitting on this stick like shape but if you
pause the video you will see that this is the exact
shape of the object. I am now ready to make a mold. |
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June 17, 2001
Time to make a mold. First thing is to build a wall
that surrounds the shape. I decided to go a bit more
intricate in shape as opposed to a plain "shoe
box" design in order to save some money and not
waste excess silicone. I then Sprayed a coat of release
agent so that we can easily pull the sculpt out from
the mold when the silicone has hardened - about 12
hours total. |
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June 17, 2001
This is what my silicone product looks like. It is
called Por-A-Mold and made by Synair. it is a 2 part
mixture. Measure equal part in seperate containers... |
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June 17, 2001
And pour into a clean bowl. This is what the 2 parts
look like before mixing. I use a regular wisk to stir
things up. the secret is to make slow moves as to
limit the amount of air bubbles. When the mixture
turns an even color of blue we are ready to pour into
the box. |
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June 17, 2001
The next day, I tore away the foamcore walls and
pulled out my sculpt leaving us with a beautifull
rubber silicone mold to make or 4 copies. |
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June 17, 2001
Here I use Por-A-Kast. Also from Synair. This is
a 2 part resin that hardens in 20 seconds. You must
mix quickly and get the liquid into the mold before
it hardens in the mixing container. Also you must
spray the inside of the Silicone mold with release
agent to avoid ruining your mold forever. |
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June 17, 2001
Here are the positive cast copies with the car paint
applied. it is a shade too dark so i will use this
as base coat and re-spray the proper color after I
get the paint wednesday. |
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June 17, 2001
Now we move back onto the oval "boilers"
that hide behind the pipes on the right side. I first
print out the boiler decal (available in the Tantive
IV download section) cut the top and then run a marker
along the edge. This will prevent seeing a white edge
when applied to the tube. |
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June 17, 2001
Align the decal to the bottom lip of the sphere and
wrap all the way around. Make sure that no bubbles
form between the decal and the Poster Tube. |
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June 17, 2001
Use an Xacto or scissors to cut the excess into strips.
This way you will be able to fold them into the inside
of the poster Tube giving us a nice clean bottom edge. |
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June 17, 2001
Here on the left we see a finished "boiler"
and on the right what one looks like inside after
all the strips are tucked into place. |
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